Painting Draz is no drag

20 thoughts on “Painting Draz is no drag”

  1. Regarding the resin and bubbles, do you tap the table or piece of terrain after you pour? Helps raise the bubbles up where you can pin prick them. What I learned when I experimented was paint makes the water effects/resin opaque vs if you swirl a little food coloring in it stays transparent.
    The gold is a nice contrast to the red, that is coming along nicely!

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    1. This time around, I used a popsicle stick to mix the paint in resin and that helped cut down on the bigger bubbles. As you can see, there were still smaller ones. I did not pin prick any bubbles which would have been a really smart thing to do. Truthfully, I think I got less than optimal results because I didn’t research this enough to know what the best techniques were. I just tried to experiment and learn from it. I will try and do better about that next time as I have nobody to blame to myself. Thanks for the kind words on the painting too. Its always good to know that something looks good to others ๐Ÿ™‚

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    1. Thanks mate and yes, you absolutely should share some of your toys. I used to collect Star Wars figures quite a bit. I still have my Special Edition and Episode One era figures in the house I grew up in because I loved collecting them ๐Ÿ™‚

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      1. That is a bummer. I’d imagine they’re still pretty affordable if you ever decided to pick some up again. Having said that, there’s always new Star Wars figures coming out for better and worse…

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    1. Thanks for the kind words as always, mate. Maybe with age comes a bit of patience. I used to be quite “The Impatient Painter” not so long ago and I might have finally turned a new leaf ๐Ÿ™‚

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  2. Oh my gosh that table cloth is so bright! You just like, have that in your house??? Doesnโ€™t it glow at night and keep you awake? ๐Ÿ˜€
    But seriously, I think the terrain looks good and donโ€™t really see any faults in it. Utterly suitable for gaming and your probably being overly picky.
    And the miniature it coming along VERY nicely. I didnโ€™t notice before but now that youโ€™ve painted it so well, this guy has a super suggestive crotch armor piece. Now itโ€™s ALL I can see. ๐Ÿ˜€

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    1. The tablecloth was made in Peru and it has tropical sensibilities as a result. I’ve never been a massive fan of it and I don’t know the tablecloth will survive the move this summer ๐Ÿ™‚

      Overly picky is the calling card of this website as you know! I’m thankful that at least the Dark Eldar is coming along so I can’t complain about that too ๐Ÿ™‚ I hadn’t thought about it but I wonder why they made it that shape. The other armor pieces that hang from the waist are more triangular and less suggestive. I’ve been too lazy to look it up but Drazhar might actually be female and not male so that might just confuse things even further!

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  3. Pass me my sunglasses mate, I need to look at your tablecloth and it’s hurting my poor retinas! ๐Ÿ˜‰ (I jest, I’m actually all in favour of bright table cloths and throws etc, you should see the inside of my house). Anyway, Drazhar is looking great. I really like the way you’ve done the stonework/marble on the base, very realistic, and the gold is exquisite of course. Tell me, what’s going on with the upper half of his body? Is that bare plastic or a grey undercoat? Do you really paint one area of the model to such a high level whilst another area is completely untouched? (Well, I can see with my own eyes that you do, I guess what I’m asking is why. It’s the complete opposite of the way I paint but obviously produces some very fine results so I’m curious).

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    1. The table cloth is my fiancรฉe’s so I have to tolerate it which I just barely manage to do ๐Ÿ™‚ It is not my style but it definitely catches your eye!

      Glad to hear that Draz is looking good. It is bare plastic you’re seeing. My friend calls me a maniac but I don’t think you need to prime GW’s plastic with a rattle can or airbrush if you don’t want to. I just base coat them in a color similar to what I’m going to paint them and go from there. It is an odd way of painting most likely but I’ve never really had any issues doing it. Now for finecast, resin, or metal, you need to prime because of how finicky those surfaces can be with accepting paint so the method I am using is really reserved for for GW plastic and that’s it.

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      1. Ah that makes perfect sense, you are a maniac! ๐Ÿ˜‰ Seriously I know it’s supposed to be a terrible sin to work without an undercoat but I do it all the time too, not deliberately or over whole panels but as I’m working I’ll spot a little crack or crevice where the bare plastic shows and just dab a bit of whatever colour it’s going to be straight over the top. I know nowadays people use all kinds of colours as undercoats, I’m just old fashioned so I only know how to work over an all-over coat of black. I brush it on too, I would use a rattlecan to save time – and I always did in the past – but living in a small flat with no garden doesn’t make that easy so I save it for the biggest models only.
        Anyway, thanks for the explanation – the quality of the results shows it’s certainly working!

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      2. I think black has been a good undercoat for many years because if you miss spots in the crevices of the model, they’ll be black like they probably would be even if you had deliberately painted them. However, I would say that you should try undercoating in a grey sometime, especially for something brighter or more colorful. Something with a lot of skin tone would work or brighter colors like your horrors and see if you like the results. I think black can sometimes dull down your colors a bit and for many models, that is no problem but it is something to consider when you do go for something bright or colorful ๐Ÿ™‚

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      3. Wise words, I’ll try out using a grey undercoat at some point and see how I get on. When I started out the only colours used for undercoating were black and white and I’ve always found white to be too stark (in fact I can honestly say I’ve never painted over white and got a result I liked). I’ll try anything once though and grey might work as a nice midway point between the two.

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